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Crazy quilt

Materials

White lawn (for backing squares), quantity depends on the size of your quilt

Scraps of medium-weight cotton fabric

Thread

Backing fabric

Wide bias binding (in colour to match your quilt)

Method

Following our Crazy Quilt Guide and using fabric A, cut lawn into 22cm squares. To stitch patchwork, lay a scrap of fabric (fabric B in diagram) right side up over one corner of the lawn. Pin in place as illustrated in Step 1.

Take the next piece of fabric (fabric C in diagram) and lay it face down in a diagonal line over fabric B, as illustrated in Step 2.

Machine stitch in place using a 6mm seam. Trim sewn edge and open fabric C right side out, press.

When fabric C is opened out to the right side, two corners of the lawn square will be covered, as illustrated in Step 3.

Continue stitching pieces together until the base square (fabric A) is totally covered.

Press and trim edges to form a square the same size as the base fabric (A), as illustrated in Step 4.

Make as many squares using the method above, as desired.

To make up your quilt, join your squares in strips, then join these strips, matching seams.

Cut and join fabric for backing; make your backing at least 5cm larger all around than your quilt. Tack backing and quilt top wrong sides together (no wadding is used). Turn out. Machine quilt along all seams (use a walking foot or the dual feed on your machine). Trim corners into curves and bind the edges of your quilt with bias binding.

Credit: Quilt designed and made by Yvonne Line.

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Headaches

From The Australian Women’s Weekly Home Library Series, Headaches: Relief at Last, A$12.95. Buy the book here.

A headache is a fact of life for countless people every day, but that doesn’t mean that it need be endured in silence. This up-to-date guide explains the causes of most common problems, from tension headaches to migraines, and provides practical answers on how you can set yourself free of headache pain.

IF PAIN PERSISTS……..

The vast majority of headaches are suffered in silence. In the belief that pain will be short-lived, or that headache is one of those things that is sent to us to try us (and it does!) many people simply soldier on.

However, as they say in advertisements for painkillers, if pain persists, you should consult your doctor. And not only if the pain is persistent; if headaches suddenly strike someone usually headache-free, or if the usual pain suffered changes in character or intensity, or is causing you any concern, it goes without saying that you should seek medical advice.

The good news is that headaches can be treated. People often don’t seek treatment, thinking that headaches are one of those things that we just have to put up with, but there are many very effective treatments available, so do consult your doctor if troubled by headache pain.

Consultation

When you consult your doctor, he or she will probably ask a series of questions designed to arrive at a diagnosis of the type of headache you are suffering from – whether it’s an idiopathic (medicalese for “precise cause unknown”) headache, like a tension or migraine headache, or whether it could spring from some sinister problem, such as a brain tumour or abscess.

The doctor is likely to ask where the pain strikes – front or back of the head? Over the eye? – and how it feels – pounding or throbbing? A tight band around the head? He or she may inquire about other symptoms associated with the pain, such as nausea, vomiting, change in bowel habit or special sensitivity to bright lights, sounds or smells.

You may be asked whether the pain is increasing, whether it’s worse in the morning or when you cough, bend or strain, and how it reacts to simple medication, like analgesics (painkillers). The doctor may also ask how the pain is effected by weekends, travel or other breaks in routine, and whether jarring the head makes it worse.

Examination

The doctor will probably check your family history (heredity can play a part, particularly migraines), as well as any medication you are taking for other conditions (headache can be a side effect of some medications that act by expanding the blood vessels). He or she may take your temperature and check your nose and ears for signs of infection – a common cause of headache – as well as check your reflexes and eyes for signs of neurological problems. If a cause of concern is found, it may be necessary to order blood tests, X-rays of your sinuses, a brain scan and/or refer to your neurologist.

Long before you’ve got to this point, however, you will probably have been asked about any personal problem or special stress you may be experiencing, because the overwhelming likelihood is that your trouble is a simple tension headache.

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Quick stress busters

Stress can harm your heart and compromise your immune system, resulting in a lowered resistance to infection. Try these three quick tips to beat stress and bring instant calm.

1. Shrug Your Shoulders

This releases tension held in your neck and back. Slowly and deliberately raise your shoulders as close to your ears as you can while breathing in deeply; then slowly push them back and down in a rolling motion, breathing out. Repeat five times.

2. Take A Whiff

Several essential oils have powerful calming effects. Keep a bottle of lavender, sandalwood, or chamomile oil in your desk drawer and sniff as needed. Or, dab a few drops of the oils on a hanky and carry it with you.

3. Find Your Pressure Points

According to Traditional Chinese Medicine, applying pressure to particular acupressure points on your body helps release stagnant qi (chi, or life force or energy); blocked qi can make you feel sluggish and lethargic. On your right leg, find the small depression located four finger-widths down from your kneecap and one finger-width over toward the outside of your leg. Press your middle finger into this point for a count of one minute. Repeat with your other leg.

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Soy for diabetics

As if helping to lower cholesterol and relieving some menopausal symptoms isn’t enough good news, soy may soon have a new health claim to make. In a small study conducted at Hull University in England, researchers tested the effect of soy supplements on diabetic women. For 12 weeks, one group of the women ate meals sprinkled with a soy protein powder containing 132 mg of isoflavones, while a control group ate meals that did not. The result? The soy powder appeared to lower dangerous insulin levels in diabetics. However, before taking any supplements, diabetics should check with their doctor first.

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Q&a Marika Cobbold

Marika Cobbold’s Shooting Butterflies, published by Allen and Unwin, rrp $29.95, is this month’s Great Read. Look out for it in bookshops with our Great Read sticker on the cover.

Q: When did you know you want to be a writer?

A: Not until I was in my mid twenties. I grew up in a newspaper family but never thought of writing as an option while growing up. But I was a reader. In fact I did very little other than read. Books were more real than the real world. And I was a daydreamer, translating my experiences into stories in my head. Yet, it never occurred to me that I might write books myself. I am obviously rather slow. But once I sat down and began I knew it was what I was meant to do.

**Q: When did you marry?

A:** I met an English naval officer in my hometown of Gothenburg Sweden. I was still at school. I was very romantic, very impressed by the uniform and all that. We had only known each other for a couple of weeks, with a summer in between, when we got engaged. I was eighteen but at least I had finished school by then. We married six months later and I went to live in England. My parents liked my husband but they were pretty worried about how young I was. It wasn’t an act of rebellion or anything like that. I had a happy childhood, loved my parents, and always intended to go to university, have a career all that. Youth is rash and all that and few were rasher than I.

**Q: Are you still married?

A:** No, the marriage ended seven years ago.

**Q: Why?

A:** There were several reasons, there usually are. My ex-husband is a very nice man and I don’t regret marrying him in the slightest; apart from anything else we have two fantastic children, but I really was too young when we married. I was nowhere near ‘finished’, whereas my husband was much older and knew who he was and what he wanted in life and in a partner. Once the children were older and on their way, the differences between us became all too apparent. We were giving each other far more grief than joy. I read somewhere a description of someone’s marriage as “another middle-aged marriage without grace” and it certainly struck a chord with me. We’re good friends though and see each other on family occasions. I don’t think it matters how grown up your children are, they still like to see their parents being nice to each other and luckily, in our case, that’s not difficult.

**Q: What did you do after your marriage ended?

A:** I really didn’t know what to do at first. I had lived in countryside for almost twenty years; it’s much the best place to bring up children but suddenly I yearned for the city and with an eighteen year old and a fifteen year old, London seemed an exciting option. Practically the moment I arrived I felt as though I should have been here all my life. In fact when I go to the country to visit friends, I find myself longing for pavements under my feet. London was a new, exciting experience for me. I came here, too, in an incredibly privileged position. I am financially independent. I have two wonderful children, and a job I love and a great flat in a great part of town. For most people, being suddenly single is not so easy.

**Q: So that’s how you got your knowledge of English country life? I loved the scene in Shooting Butterflies, where you’re seated around the table with the blind guest and the bustling mother is so concerned with what she thinks is good for him she fails to see her family disintegrating in front of her.

A:** Yes, I must say I enjoyed writing that. I enjoyed living in the country, by and large but there are limitations, to put it mildly. It was my little shot at the past.

**Q: You have a new partner now?

A:** Oh, you want all the sordid details of my life, do you? No, I don’t have a partner anymore. We ended it after six years together. He is in publishing; that’s how we met. Again though, we’re good friends, so that’s OK.

**Q: Do you like living alone?

A:** I do. It’s rather wonderful being able to do what you want whenever you want. Eating croissants and chocolate for supper, chatting on the phone for hours, watching Sex and the City on TV, writing until three in the morning – and not having to explain or answer to anyone. I don’t really feel lonely. How can I? I have my children. There’s my son, the doctor, Jeremy, 26, and my daughter Harriet, who is 22 and an actress. They live around the corner from me, so I see them a lot. I have heaps of friends and other family. In time, I may feel as though there’s something missing in my life, most of us probably dream of settling down with that soul mate. And there are times when I look back to the time the children were small and wish I could have it all again, but that, as they say, is life.

**Q: Does writing come easily?

A:** I wish! It’s long and slow and solitary. I do a lot of sitting and staring into space. Someone once said that writing is easy; all you do is sit down at the typewriter and open a vein. I rather agree with that. It’s lovely having a book in your head. It’s not in the least lovely sitting down every day in front of a blank screen that seems to be screaming ‘Feed me! Yet in the few moments when the writing flows it’s like being in love. I think I’m someone who has to ‘translate’ life onto the page in order to live fully. (That’s probably a contradiction) So, on balance I wouldn’t swap my job for anyone else’s.

**Q: Where did the inspiration for Shooting Butterflies come from?

A:** I was out walking in the country one summer’s day when I came upon a large heap of horse manure on the path in front of me. I was about to step round, nose wrinkled, eyes averted but I paused instead, transfixed by the sight of a beautiful orange and gold butterfly its wings fluttering as it clung onto the heap of manure. That, I thought, just about sums up life.

I’ve been told by some people that Shooting Butterflies is a dark novel but I think it’s about hope. We often hear of how tragedy may lurk behind a glittering façade. Well, Grace, my main protagonist claims that sometimes a perfectly good life might be hiding behind a tragic façade. Grace is a photographer. She knows all about the difference an angle, a sliver of light, can make to the picture.

Bad things happen to Grace – bad things happen, that’s life. But in most aspects of her life, Grace has choices. Having choices is something that we might take for granted but for women of previous generations it was all too often an unachievable luxury as Grace realises through her developing friendship with ninety-year-old Louisa, batty ghost and forgotten wife of a great man.

To me, humour is the saving grace of mankind and Grace is funny. I know I wrote her, but she really is quite funny. Like many authors I am constantly frustrated by the gulf between that which I dream of writing and that which I actually manage, poor frail mortal that I am, to produce. But in Shooting Butterflies I think I have written rather a good novel. (I know that in English people don’t boast but I’m Swedish so I’m allowed.)

**Q: Your first language is Swedish. Why do you write in English?

A:** It’s pretty simple really. When I started writing I had already been living in the UK for some seven years. I spoke English to my husband and children and friends and it just seemed natural to continue communicating in that language.

**Q: Who are your favourite writers?

A:** I love Anne Tyler and Margaret Attwood, Carol Shield Jane Hamilton and Philip Roth. I very much enjoyed The Idea of Perfection by Kate Grenville. The list is endless, really, that’s the joy. There’s always a new writer to discover. I like the classics, of course: Hardy, Trollope, the Brontes. The Great Gatsby is incredible in its perfection. To Kill a Mockingbird is luminous. I think Jane Austen was the most naturally gifted writer ever. She wrote perfectly constructed novels and there weren’t too many creative writing courses around in the early nineteenth century. And P.G. Wodehouse still makes me laugh out loud.

**Q: Tell me about your childhood?

A:** It was good. Stable. A close extended family and lots of friends. Having a grandfather and father in the newspaper business was stimulating and my mother is very artistic so pictures and books and music were all about us, which makes for a pretty good start. There was much less emphasis on material things, not that many toys nor the constant round of activities that children are used to these days. I was left to do my own thing quite a lot. My mother actually believed it was good for children to be bored sometimes. I don’t think she’s wrong. It forces you to rely on your own resources – vital if you want to do anything at all creative. I have a Jewish grandmother and grew up with many Jewish friends and I think I got a Jewish sense of humour, i.e. pretty black, and also the very strong sense of family. There were and are a lot of very colourful personalities on both my mother and my father’s side, successful too. That’s a great thing to have with you – all these amazing, infuriating, ancestors. Although my children and I live in England we are all still very close as an extended family and we all spend the summers together on this Swedish island where I grew up.

**Q: The themes of wasted potential and fear of failure runs through your books, why do you think that is?

A:** I just think that being allowed to fulfill your potential should be a basic human right and it mostly isn’t. It certainly wasn’t for most women up until recently. And just think how many potential Picassos, Mozarts, Mother Theresas super models, educators, scientists … or simply good, productive people of whatever sex, there are, born every day who just don’t have a chance, through poverty and oppression. They never get a chance to achieve a fraction of what they could have been capable of, had they been born in for example Britain or Australia. Such a waste, such a tragedy. And such a privilege to be born in a time and a place where you have a chance and where you have a choice.

Of course, even in these days of increased equality, women have tougher choices than men. If you want to flourish in your career, family has to take a back-seat and if you want to give your family what it deserves it’s a pretty tall order to go as far as you might want in your career. As for failure … like most sentient beings I feel a failure myself a lot of the time so being self-centred, I give that trait to some of my characters.

**Q: You began writing very young with two small children. How did you fit it in with the demands of family life?

A:** You steal time. My husband was away for up to nine months at a go in the navy, and my family lived in another country so there wasn’t a lot of baby-sitting on offer, so spare time was scarce, but with writing, especially your first book, you can achieve a lot in quite a small amount of time as long as that time is spent consistently. The thing is to write something every day, even if it’s half a page at three o’clock in the morning. Of course if the writing takes off you get deadlines and sidelines and all that and then it’s the same story as for most women; you juggle and you work your butt off.

**Q: Your first novel was rejected. Why did you keep writing after the rejections?

A:** I just reckoned that I would be even more miserable not writing than writing so it was not really a choice. You just go on. It’s hard because you just don’t know if all the effort and sacrifice of time will ever amount to anything but a lot of pages in a desk-drawer. You start thinking of all the things you could have done with the past two or three years and multiply that with a lifetime. Think if nothing ever comes of it? And what a very uncomfortable thing it would be to maybe one day have to accept that one had all drive and the burning desire to create, all the foibles of a writer but that one lacked just that one little trait; TALENT. Spooky! Still, hope is the greatest gift, or con, so I carried on and in the end I got there.

**Q: You seem to have a great life?

A:** It is incredibly privileged. You are never really content though are you? I would definitely like to write better, sell more, get better reviews, win a few more prizes; all very un-British to be so ambitious, or at least to admit it, but there we are.

**Q: What next for you?

A:** That thing which is both a blessing and a curse in a writer’s life; the next book, always that next book when all I really want to do is sit back and watch Neighbours.

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Woven cane shades

NOTE: To ensure safety, use only 25W light globes in each of the lamps featured here.

Materials Drum shaped wire frame (available at selected craft and hobby outlets)

Cane webbing for chairs, appox. 65cm (available from chair repair shops)

Scissors

Masking tape

PVA glue

Clothes pegs

Craft glue

Bias binding, in a colour that matches the cane webbing

Towel

Step 1

Measure the length and circumference of the lamp, then make a paper template of it, Be careful to allow and extra 2cm at the top edge and on one edge where the lamp panel will meet and overlap. Transfer the template markings to the back of the cane webbing and mark the top cutting line with masking tape. (The webbing comes with fringed raw edges on both sides. Leave the fringing on the edge that will form the bottom of your shade.) Soak the webbing in warm water for about 15 minutes. This makes it easy to bend and should prevent splitting. Remove the webbing from the water and pat it dry with a towel.

Step 2

Apply a thin line of PVA glue along the top edge of the wire frame and begin pressing the top edge of the webbing to it. Fold the 2cm allowance to the inside of lamp as you work and peg this in place while the glue is drying. Work until the webbing is completely attached, then apply a thin line of glue around the bottom edge of the frame and secure the lower edge of the webbing in place. Apply a thin line of glue between the two layers of the webbing where the sides overlap. Neaten the inside top edge by applying bias binding over the folded edge, and then glue it in place to secure it.

Credit: Lampshades designed and made by Ivana Perkins

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Feathered shade

NOTE: To ensure safety, use only 25W light globes in each of the lamps featured here.

Materials

Plain lampshade

Feather boa, in desired shade

Spray adhesive

Apply the spray adhesive all around the outside of the lampshade, and then, working quickly and starting at the top of the shade, wind the feather boa around the shade until the surface is covered. Press the boa in place firmly on the surface of the shade. When you are happy with the shape, trim the top rim of the feathers so none of them touches the light bulb or is inside the shade.

Credit: Lampshades designed and made by Ivana Perkins

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Paper shade

NOTE: To ensure safety, use only 25W light globes in each of the lamps featured here.

Materials

Wire box frame (available at selected craft and hobby outlets)

Japanese momigami double-sided paper or other handmade paper

Scissors

Masking tape

Craft glue

Blunt knife

Step 1

Measure the height and width of the frame to calculate the size of the paper sheets needed to cover it. Allow 2cm for top and bottom and allow for a 1cm overlap where the sides meet. (We used two sheets of paper 44cm x 68cm).

Apply masking tape to one 68cm edge of one sheet of paper and to one 44cm edge of the other sheet of paper. Cut each sheet of paper into 4cm-wide strips cutting from the edge opposite the masking tape close to the masking tape. Do not cut through the masking tape but leave the strips attached at this side.

By repeating this on both sheets you will eventually create two sheets of paper with a fringed effect.

Step 2

Lay the cut sheets of paper on a flat surface, one on top of the other. Align the edges and smooth out the strips. Begin weaving the strips on the top sheet through the strips on the bottom sheet. Each strip should be woven over and under repeatedly until the whole strip is woven. Continue working in this way until the strips are all woven together to form one large piece of paper with a double thickness. Adjust the strips to create good tension.

Step 3

To secure the woven paper around the frame, apply a thin line of glue along one upright of the frame. Place the paper on top, press it firmly in place then fold the allowance under and tuck the ends in using a blunt knife. Allow to dry. When dry, roll the frame over the paper, folding in the allowances on the top and bottom edges as you work. Adjust the tension of the paper on the frame where the sides meet and trim the strips as necessary to create a neat finish. Apply a little glue between the paper layers where the sides overlap and press these layers together firmly to secure them in place.

Credit: Lampshades designed and made by Ivana Perkins

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Panel shade

NOTE: To ensure safety, use only 25W light globes in each of the lamps featured here.

Materials

Medium-weight cardboard, or you could use a manila folder

Wire lamp frame (available at selected craft and hobby outlets)

Mulberry paper

Plain paper

Pencil

Scissors

Clothes pegs

Craft glue

Blunt knife

Lamp feet stoppers (or you can use beads)

Step 1

Make a template of one of the frame panels by laying the frame onto cardboard and tracing around the outside of the wire. Allow 2cm extra for the overlap at the top, bottom and sides of the panel. Make another template but without the 2cm allowances. Cut out the templates, then cut three paper panels from each template.

Step 2

Secure the larger paper panels onto the lamp, first attaching them to each alternate panel of the frame. Lay the paper over the wire frame, centre it and apply a thin line of glue along the wire uprights. Press the paper firmly onto the glue and fold under the side and bottom allowances to the inside of the lamp, tucking the ends in with a blunt knife. Use clothes pegs to hold the edges in place as the glue dries. Repeat to attach the remaining two larger paper panels.

Step 3

Attach a smaller paper panel to the frame by applying a thin line of the glue over the corresponding paper-covered uprights for that frame. Centre paper panels, then press paper firmly onto the glue. Adjust the tension of the paper panel before the glue dries. Repeat to attach the two remaining smaller panels in this way and allow to dry. Make diagonal cuts in top allowances, then fold to the inside of the lamp and glue them in place to neaten this edge. Allow to dry, and then add the lamp feet to bottom of frame.

Credit: Lampshades designed and made by Ivana Perkins

Feathered shade

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Milk jug cover

Beautiful crocheted jug covers and cloth edges never go out of style. As we receive so many requests from readers for this style of project we thought it was time to run a lovely tea story from our archives. There is even a crochet jug cover that comes complete with it’s own teacup decoration!

Materials One ball each Twilleys Twenty white crochet cotton and variegated crochet cotton

Twelve glass beads

One 0.75mm crochet hook

Craft Glue

Plastic thimble

Measurements

Approximately 20cm diameter (from point to point)

Method

Using hook and white cotton, make 10ch, join with sl st to form ring.

1st row. 4ch, 35dtr into ring, join with sl st in 4th ch.

2nd row. 5ch miss 1dtr, 1tr in next dtr, 2ch; rep from to end, join with sl st in 3rd of 5ch.

3rd row. 1 sl st in first sp, 3ch, 4tr in same sp, drop lp from hook, insert hook into back of 3rd ch, draw dropped lp through firmly (Bbl formed); 5ch, 5tr in next 5 sp, drop loop from hook, insert hook into back of 1st tr, draw dropped lp through (another Bbl formed); rep from ending with 2ch, 1tr into top of first Bbl.

4th row. 6ch, 1dc in next lp; rep from ending with 3ch, 1tr into tr of previous row.

5th row. 7ch, 1dc in next lp; rep from all around, edning with 3ch, 1dtr into tr of previous row.

6th row. 7ch, 1dc in next lp, 11dtr in next lp, 1dc in next lp; rep from , omitting 1dc at end of last rep, 1sl st in dtr of previous row.

7th row. 1 sl st to centre of next lp, 1dc in same lp, 7ch, 1dc in next dtr, (2ch, miss 1dtr, 1dc in next dtr) 5 times, 7ch, 1dc in next lp; rep from ending last rep with 3ch, 1dtr in first dc.

8th row. 7ch, 1dc in next lp, 7ch (1Bbl in next 2ch lp, 2ch) 4 times, 1Bbl in next 2ch lp, (7ch, 1dc in next lp) twice; rep from omitting (7ch, 1dc) twice at end of last rep, 3ch, 1dtr in dtr of previous row.

9th and 10th rows. As 8th row, having 1Bbl less of each pineapple and 1 lp more between each row (3Bbls and 5 lps on 10th row).

11th row. (7ch, 1dc) in next 4 lps, 4ch, 2dtr into 2ch lp, 4ch, 2dtr in next 2ch lp, 4ch, 1dc in next lp; rep from to last 2dtr, 2ch, 1tr in the first 7ch lp.

12th row. (7ch, 1dc) in next 5 lps, 3ch, 1dtr in top of each dtr of last row leaving last lp of each on needle, yarn over hook pull through to form GR, 3ch, 1 GR in middle 2ch of 4ch lp, 2ch, 1GR in next 2dtr, 3ch, 1dc in next lp; rep from to last GR, 1tr in first 7ch lp.

13th row. (7ch, 1dc) in next 5 lps, 7ch, 1dc in top of first GR, (5ch, 1dc) in each of next 2GR; rep from to last 5ch, substitute for this 2ch, 1tr.

14th row. (7ch, 1dc) in each lp, ending 3ch, 1dtr in last lp.

15th row. 4ch, 5dtr in same lp, 1dc in next lp, (7ch, 1dc) in next 2 lps, 11dtr in next lp, 1dc in next lp; rep from to last lp, 5dtr in last lp, join with sl st to top of 4ch at beg.

Break off yarn and fasten off securely.

Join in variegated thread on which 12 beads have been threaded. Join should be at right of any fan.

16th row. 1dc in each of first 6dtr, 6ch, slide one bead over ch above 6th dtr, 1dc in same dtr, 1dc in each of next 5dtr, (1dc in dc, 7dc in lp) twice; rep from to end, join with sl st, fasten off.

Saucer detail

1st row. Join variegated cotton into foundation ring, work (1dc, 1ch) into every 2nd st, Join with sl st.

2nd row. Sl st nto first ch sp, 4ch (as dtr), 1dtr into same sp, 2dtr into each sp to end. Join with sl st.

3rd row. 3ch, miss next dtr, 1dc in next st, 2ch; rep from to end, sl st to join. Fasten off securely.

Cup detail

1st row. Join variegated thread in foundation row, work 1dc in every 2nd st, join with sl st.

2nd row. 3ch as first tr, 2tr into next dc, 1tr into next dc; rep from to end, sl st to join.

3rd row. 3ch as tr, 1tr in each tr; sl st to join.

4th and 5th rows. As 2nd and 3rd rows. Do not break off yarn.

Handle. 8ch, 1 sl st into side of Cup (2nd row), turn, 10dc into lp, sl st into 1st ch. Fasten off securely.

To finish. Coat Cup and Saucer with craft glue to stiffen and allow to dry using a plastic thimble to hold the cup to the desired shape.

General abbreviations

Bbl: bobble

beg: beginning

ch: chain

cont: continue

dc: double crochet

dtr: double treble

GR: group

lp: loop

rep: repeat

rnd: round

sl: slip

sp: space

st: stitch

tr: treble

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